The Mad Chef of M Street: Brine With Me

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Brine With Me

Saturday...

Chef gets to go home for the evening, leaving Barton and I to play in the kitchen. And play we did for the first 2 hours, testing some recipes for a special we are going to use tomorrow. We have this item on the menu that changes constantly. It is an "Entree for 2," and it goes along with the neighborhood theme of the restaurant and communal dining.

The price usually hovers around 42 bucks, which is still a pretty damn good deal in this town. Tonight we pulled some chickens we had been brining for the past 3 days. Threw the entire chicken (these are 4-5 pounds a piece) in the oven for 20 minutes at 450 degrees, then pulled it out and let it rest for several minutes. Doesn't get much better then this as far as chicken goes.

I mean, if you are getting some organic free range chickens delivered fresh to the back door of the place and throw them directly in a brine (just some water with salt and sugar) and let it sit for a few days, they won't need much else to taste damn good. Goes along with the whole "great product doesn't need much to make it taste good" thing, well that or "throw your ego on the side and let he food do the talking," which is a similar philosophy.

As far as service went tonite, everything was smooth and we got pretty busy, coming in just under 200 covers for the evening, I do not think we have hit opentable.com yet, and Seitsema is still nowhere to be seen. Barton leaves for Alaska at 5am Sunday morning and will not be back until late Friday. Chef and I will be working our butts off to keep things in tip top order while he is gone, to show that he and I can handle things in his extended absence.

And by that I mean, I am going to have a blast in this kitchen for the next several days.

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Chef James Chase

At the age of 12, James Chase heard the call of the culinary arts in the simple form of bacon and eggs. Whether it was for his parents or his friends and their parents, who were happy to have him stay over in order to sample his art, this dish launched him from a curious teenager to a quizzical student, and now, to a chef of the highest quality.

Born and raised in suburban Hyattsville, MD, a stones throw from Washington, DC, James attended high school at the prestigious DeMatha Catholic High School, and found himself in small, local Italian restaurant washing dishes. From the bottom he began his journey to the top. He was accepted into Johnson and Wales University for the culinary arts and began his studies.

Knowing that study without practice was under serving, James sought out employment under Chef Eric Pickens of Classic Catering, and delved deeply into the art and efficiency of catering to large crowds with food of the finest quality. Chef Pickens was impressed with James’ work and dedication and referred James to his friend, 1995 Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s Chef of the Year Bill Jackson of the Carlysle Grand Café in Arlington, VA.

While still in school, Chef Jackson took James under his wing, and was able to show him the enormous responsibilities of being a modern chef, from managing the multimillion dollar business to perfecting the smallest garnish. Under the tutelage of Chef Jackson, he was able to experience that which he was being taught in culinary school, preparing him for life as a culinary artist.

Soon James moved across the border into Northwest DC to work for former kitchen supervisor at the White House Chef Ron Reda, a favorite of famed Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema, at Shelley’s West End. As sous chef, James got the opportunity to help develop the menu and manage the kitchen for the first time, learning not only the technical duties of the position, but the ethics that drive him to this day: keeping a clean kitchen, using only the freshest ingredients and leading by example.

James moved on to expand his culinary knowledge by spending time at Zola, the fashionable café beneath Washington’s chic National Spy Museum. Under French-trained Chef Philip Carroll, former executive chef at the famed Cerise at Le Meridian Hotel in Chicago, James got to learn and experience the attention to detail and delicate nature of French cuisine.

Later, James worked at Chef Todd English’s Olives in midtown DC, under one of his most trusted assistants, Steve Maneno. Exploring the roots of Mediterranean cuisine and expanding upon his prior knowledge, James was able to add a new geographical twist to his repertoire while earning the respect and admiration of two of the city’s finest chefs.

That respect came calling when he was asked to join the staff at another of DC’s more prestigious haunts, DC Coast. Known for having the best seafood in town, James was able to learn from the highly rated Chef Jeff Tunks and Chef de Cuisine Andy Brooks. Chef Brooks took James’ cooking to another level, infusing the knowledge and usage of local and simple ingredients to create fresh masterpieces with seasonal variety. James was so well regarded at DC Coast, he was asked to help start Chef Tunks’ fourth DC restaurant, Acadiana.

The Washington Post in April 2007 raved about James’ Wahoo special:

Another night's wahoo -- ah, that daily delivery -- was also served just as requested, one minute on the light side. Topped with a roasted tomato sauce (with a surprise kick of chili) and sided with a slightly sweet gingery polenta, it was one of the nicest and least showy seafood entrees in several months.

James sees food as a personal interaction from chef to diner, and continues to implement his mantra of fresh ingredients presented in an exquisite fashion, simple as his bacon and eggs all those years ago.

The Mad Chef of M Street

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Brine With Me

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Chef James Chase

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